Lynden food writer’s herb garden a palette of flavors

AMY BLACKWOOD

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"I live for food."

Sandra Bowens' mantra seasons everything she does. A 25-year career in the food industry found her cooking in professional kitchens, for geologists in remote lodges and for a 50-man fraternity house, but her appreciation for seasonings developed while working in sales at the Colorado Spice Company. Now a freelance food writer, Bowens is working on a cookbook, "Spiced Right," and runs the flavorful Web site, aPinchOf.com.

Bowens, 44, started her first garden in Slidell, La., in 1999. What began as a few herbs in containers soon expanded to lettuce, arugula, okra, eggplant and tomatoes (perfect for the hot Southern climate). Having completed the Washington State University Master Gardeners Extension program in 2006, she now works in the Hovander Homestead Park gardens weekly.

"Last year we put in the Herbs in History garden," says Bowens. "It features 25 plants that have been important in the kitchen and/or medicinally in the past. I've been able to work with many herbs with which I wasn't familiar."

Bowens' home garden abounds with colorful perennials as well as the many herbs and spices she taps for cooking.

"It is so satisfying to be able to dash outside while cooking dinner and take a few snips or to let whatever is ripe dictate what you are going to prepare."

Years in this garden: 3.5. Growing now: Basil, oregano, rosemary, tarragon, elephant garlic, marjoram, chives, cilantro, parsley, summer savory, bee balm (Monarda didyma), lemon balm (Melissa officinalis), blue flowering hyssop (Hyssopus officinalis), pineapple sage (Salvia elegans), calendula, sweet William (Dianthus barbatus), pinks (Dianthus caryophyllus), poppies, chocolate cosmos, echinacea, shiso (Perilla frutescens), wild strawberry (Fragaria), feverfew, dahlias, snapdragons, geum (Avens), lettuce and a chili pepper plant.

Lessons learned the hard way: Bowens calls her peppermint patch a "rookie mistake" in Pacific Northwest gardening. Planting the mint as ground cover, it did its job a little too well. "Turns out it grows like crazy both out and up, so I am constantly cutting it back, otherwise it grows taller than the hydrangeas." To keep invasive mints under control, Bowens recommends planting them in large pots instead of directly in the soil.

Pestiest pests: Bowens takes a tolerant approach to handling garden foes. "I rarely use chemicals, so I think the good bugs are taking care of the bad ones. If the slugs come around, I let them have a few bites. The birds seem to get all of the blueberries but I always say, 'That's OK, I know where to buy blueberries but the birds don't.'"

Plant pride: Bee balm, sweet William, pineapple sage, anise hyssop ("sends up spikes of striking purple flowers that you can cut and use as an interesting stir-stick in drinks") and "true" marjoram. "Oregano is sometimes referred to as wild marjoram, but the true marjoram that we can grow as a tender perennial has a much more pleasant flavor when used fresh."

Local wisdom: Tarragon, oregano, rosemary and thyme all grow well in Whatcom County. "Our cool, wet springs help us grow nice lettuce and arugula. Both of them do well in pots that you can start when the ground is still too wet to work."

Herb to try: "Chervil is a frilly, pretty little plant that most people don't give a thought to — it's an easy-to-grow annual with a slight licorice flavor. It's great in eggs and is a component of fines herbes, a classic herb blend."

Getting started: "Think about what you like to cook and eat. Start with the herbs that you regularly buy at the market. Consider the space you have and what is readily available locally. For example, tomatoes take up quite a bit of space and we can buy a tremendous variety in season at the farmers markets. You might do well to grow something that you like but isn't around much, like okra or fava beans, which also have gorgeous flowers."

Stop and eat the flowers: "One thing some people don't realize is the flowers of all culinary herbs are edible. The leaves and flowers of nasturtiums have a wonderful peppery taste.

"Calendula petals can be tossed into salads or baked goods for color. Borage flowers have a radish taste, and Dianthus is delectable dusted with sugar.

"Those interested in eating flowers should do some research first. You should always know how they were grown and make sure no sprays have been involved."

Tools of the trade: Handheld spade, clippers and a trowel. "I'm a pretty low-tech gardener. I like to pull weeds by hand because it is interesting to get down near the ground and see how the plants grow and who is living under there."

Favorite things: Smit's compost (www.smitscompost.com), "The Herbfarm Cookbook" by Jerry Traunfeld and low-maintenance, great-tasting arugula.

Outside the garden walls: When she isn't cooking, creating recipes and reading "anything I can get my hands on about food," Bowens enjoys hiking, swimming and tennis. Married 23 years with no kids or pets, she and her husband, Tom, are ready to travel at will.